Research: Iris Van Herpen

 Iris van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer and along with Davina India she is my main inspiration fo this project.

"Iris van Herpen perceives Haute Couture as a transformative language, an interdisciplinary entity that emerges from the space in which innovation and craftsmanship interlace."

Her unique shapes and ill to innovate are my favourite traits about this brand.  She funds both fashion and architecture as expressions of self, which is why she collaborates very often with architects such as  Philip Besley, creating mesmerizing sculptur-like dresses, my objective as well this term. 

 Transforming Fashion (van Herpen, 2017)

The Iris van Herpen maison was founded in 2007 and showcases its collections bi-annually at Paris Haute Couture Week as a member of the Fédération de la Haute Couture. The brand stands for slow fashion with a multi-disciplinary approach towards collaborations with artists, architects and scientists.

"Pioneering techniques and materials evolve into liquescent shapes and intricate layered textures, sculpting graceful silhouettes that reflect a woman's myriad of movements. " - www.irisvanherpen.com

Shift Souls (van Herpen, 2019)

The collection on the previous image, Shift SOuls, is an example of the dynamism and fluidity I aim to achieve, creating movement through the whole body figure into its surrounding and conveying, at the same time, a sense of freedom and vividness.

Roots of Rebirth (van Herpen, 2020)

Just like van Herpen, I intend to blur the lines between fashion and art. But my biggest impediment for this is the lack of resources, since she is a pioneer in using the most innovative materials, technology and techniques, which I can't acquire at the moment.

One of her most famous collections was Crystallization (2009), where she challenged herself to design a dress that looked like a splash of water. She partnered with Benthem Crouwel Architects to participate in an exhibition for Arcam. The result was an astonishing transparent piece made of a proprietary acrylic that remains transparent even after being heated and shaped.

Crystallisation (van Herpen, 2011)

Similarly, in 2009 she created another collection where she tried to harness smoke.  “Will there be a time when clothing is unnecessary and that something as intangible as smoke could be ‘worn’ on the body?” is the question she set out to answer. She was inspired by observing the ordinary; refinery smoke, which she finds ethereally beautiful and sinister at the same time. She aimed for her clothes to trigger in the audience " this mixed feeling by manipulating the unpleasant industrial material metal mesh into something soft and lively."

Refined smoke (van Herpen, 2009)

References

Borrelli-Persson, L., 2021. Iris van Herpen Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear Collection. [online] Vogue. Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/iris-van-herpen> [Accessed 18 May 2021].

Borrelli-Persson, L., 2021. Iris van Herpen Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear Collection. [online] Vogue. Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/iris-van-herpen> [Accessed 18 May 2021].

Chastka, A., 2015. Iris van Herpen. [online] Metalepsis Projects. Available at: <https://metalepsisprojects.com/blogs/news/53287811-iris-van-herpen> [Accessed 18 May 2021].

Iris van Herpen. n.d. About | Iris van Herpen. [online] Available at: <https://www.irisvanherpen.com/about> [Accessed 18 May 2021].

Staugaitis, L., 2019. Birds and Faces Emerge From Dizzying Multi-Layered Gowns by Iris Van Herpen. [online] Colossal. Available at: <https://www.thisiscolossal.com/2019/01/dizzying-multi-layered-gowns-by-iris-van-herpen/> [Accessed 18 May 2021].

van Herpen, I., 2009. Refined smoke. [image] Available at: <https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Ftwitter.com%2Fcmoa%2Fstatus%2F825133040733138946&psig=AOvVaw3Kn-AtHM98gfw46NQi62Ds&ust=1621804417673000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCLjE_LSa3vACFQAAAAAdAAAAABAf> [Accessed 18 May 2021].